_I58	EAST  AGAIN
distributed but a multitude of " Nats," those annoying mis-
chievous little spirits that interfere in all one's domestic arrange-
ments and rarely do good but generally harm. The Burmese
and the Chinese had nothing to carry them in and got away
unburdened but the generous Almighty filled up the poor
Kachins' baskets with these unwelcome godlets. As they
returned homeward numbers of the little spirits fell out of the
over-packed hampers and peopled the forest and overflowed into
the surrounding districts with the result that to-day the Shan
States are a stronghold of the " Nats/*
The rivers are well stocked with Mahseer, the sporting fish
of Southern Asia, which run to a great size. Although perhaps
this region does not offer the sport that is to be found in the
Bhamo district away farther north, there is no doubt that there
is much good fishing to be had. The Shan rivers resemble those
of northern countries, with pool and rapid and placid reach.
At Kehsi-Mansan, where I spent the second night of my
journey there is an extensive reach of clear water just below the
Dak Bungalow. Owing to the sanctity of the spot—there is a
little shrine on a small island—the fish are considered as sacred
and can be seen swimming in large shoals on the look-out for
food brought them by pious pilgrims.
The men of this region are much tattooed and often we passed
little groups, who had divested themselves on account of the
heat of all their clothing except their shorts or a small loin-cloth.
Many were tattooed all over in dark blue designs, giving the
impression of a complete tight-fitting garment of dark lace.
There seemed not to be an inch of their bodies that was not thus
decorated.
After leaving Mongkung, the little capital of the State of that
name, the road enters a forest of sweet smelling pines, the long
straight trunks rising from the bare earth for so thick grow the
trees that no undergrowth can exist. From the pine wood we
passed again amongst jungle-covered hills into a deep valley,
where the deciduous trees were bursting into leaf and all the
world was very beautiful. The dry season was coming to its
close. In a very short space of time rain would fall when all the
country would throw off the burden of drought and array itself
in the verdant robe of spring. The trees evidently knew it, for
i& anticipation of the welcome showers their buds were already
opening. An unexpected cuckoo broke the silence of the
valley. Strange to say it had no foreign accent but produced its